How to Work Out How Much Fabric You Need
Your sewing pattern asks for 1.40 metres of fabric, your basket holds 1.20 metres, and suddenly there's one big question: will it really be enough? With our guide to fabric requirements, you can reliably work out how much you need for clothing, bags, home furnishings and children's projects. That way you won't buy too little, and you won't be left with lots of unnecessary fabric either.
Why fabric requirements don't just depend on size
The quantity printed on the sewing pattern is a very good starting point, but it isn't a figure to copy blindly. It usually refers to a particular fabric width, a specific size and a set cutting layout. A fabric that is just 10 or 20 centimetres narrower can noticeably increase the amount you need.
The design itself makes a difference too. A loose, flowing dress with a full skirt, trousers with long legs or a jacket with a hood need more fabric than a simple top. Pockets, large patch pockets, ruffles, a tie belt or a lining all add to that. With children's clothing, the smaller pattern pieces can often be laid out economically – but with larger adult sizes, that doesn't always work.
Your fabric requirement is therefore always the sum of pattern pieces, fabric width, direction, print and a sensible reserve. Check these five points and you'll order with far more peace of mind.
Calculating fabric requirements: the information you need
Before you start calculating, have your sewing pattern, size chart and the fabric description to hand. The most important details are the required fabric quantity and the fabric width. Many sewing patterns list several figures, for example for fabrics 110 to 115 centimetres wide and for fabrics 140 to 150 centimetres wide. Always choose the row that matches the actual width of the fabric you have in mind.
Also check whether the pattern gives the fabric requirement for all sizes together or for each individual size. If you're sewing between two sizes – say a 12 on top and a 14 at the hip – it's usually best to go with the higher figure. For very flared designs or extra-long sleeves, it can be worth allowing a little more leeway.
For simple rectangular projects, the formula is straightforward: length plus allowances, multiplied by the number of fabric lengths you need. For a table runner measuring 150 centimetres long and 45 centimetres wide, a 1.60-metre length of 140-centimetre-wide fabric is usually enough. The extra 10 centimetres give you room for straightening the cut edges and for hems.
For clothing, the cutting layout on the sewing pattern is more reliable than simply calculating the area. Pattern pieces are rarely rectangular, and because of the grainline they can't be turned any way you like.
Understanding fabric width
Fabric by the metre is generally sold by length, while the width stays fixed. Jersey, French terry, sweatshirt fabric and many woven fabrics are often around 140 to 150 centimetres wide. Woven cotton for patchwork and home décor, on the other hand, is often only about 110 centimetres wide. With narrower fabric, you'll usually need more length for the same project.
Here's an example: according to the sewing pattern, a dress in a size 14 needs 1.80 metres of 140-centimetre-wide fabric. But the viscose you've chosen is only 130 centimetres wide. Some pieces may then no longer fit side by side. Don't just carry on with 1.80 metres – check the figure for the narrower fabric width, or allow an extra 20 to 40 centimetres to be on the safe side.
Width is crucial for ribbing as well. Tubular ribbing is cut differently from ribbing sold flat by the metre. So before you order, check which width and type the sewing pattern calls for.
Reading sewing pattern information and choosing the right figures
A sewing pattern's fabric requirements chart often has several columns. As well as sizes and fabric widths, you'll find notes such as ‘with lining’, ‘contrast fabric’, ‘with hood’ or ‘for printed fabric’. These additions are no small detail. If you're sewing a lined waistcoat, you'll need the stated amount of both outer fabric and lining fabric, plus possibly interfacing for the collar, facings or pocket flaps.
If you're sewing a long-sleeved top instead of the short-sleeved version, go with the longer quantity. If you'd like to make a hoodie with a contrasting hood, divide the requirement according to the individual pattern pieces. Try laying out the paper pattern pieces on a clear surface. You'll quickly see which pieces are cut from which fabric and whether half a metre of contrast fabric really is enough.
With PDF sewing patterns, it's worth reading the instructions in full before buying fabric. Some pieces, such as facings, pockets or sleeve cuffs, aren't always obvious in the first quantity listed. If you print the pattern at full size, or have it printed for you, it's especially easy to lay out the pieces and check the requirement for yourself.
Prints, nap and direction: where requirements go up
A plain fabric with no visible direction gives you the most freedom when cutting. Fabrics with motifs, stripes, checks, large florals or a nap follow stricter rules. Often all the pattern pieces must point in the same direction. You can't simply turn a piece round just so it fits into a gap.
Fabrics with animals, vehicles, lettering or flowers that clearly grow upwards are known as one-way prints. Depending on the project, allow around 20 to 40 centimetres extra for these. With large pattern repeats, you may need even more, because you'll want to position the print nicely on front pieces, pockets or side seams.
Stripes and checks look especially lovely when they continue across the seams. That takes planning and a little reserve. For a striped top, the standard quantity is often enough if you don't want to match them exactly. For a checked blouse or a coat with visible vertical seams, you should be more generous in your calculations.
Velvet, corduroy, velour, fleece and some coated fabrics also have a visible nap. To make the colour and surface look the same everywhere, cut all pieces in the same direction. This can noticeably increase how much fabric you need.
Planning sensibly for allowances, mistakes and shrinkage
The seam allowance is normally already included in the sewing pattern, or needs to be added when cutting according to its instructions. It isn't automatically a reason to buy an extra half metre across the board. What matters is whether the requirements chart was drawn up for a pattern with or without the seam allowance marked on it.
Even so, a small reserve is wise. For a simple top, an extra 10 to 20 centimetres is often enough, especially if you're also cutting ribbing, a neck facing or a small pocket from the main fabric. For an elaborate dress, pattern matching or a narrow fabric width, 30 centimetres or more is well worth it. It also comes in handy if you accidentally cut a pattern piece the wrong way round.
Natural fibres such as cotton, linen or viscose can shrink a little in the first wash. If a fabric will need to be washable later, it's best to wash it before cutting, in the same way you plan to care for the finished item. For tightly calculated projects, it's better to buy a little extra in the first place, as re-ordered batches can differ slightly in colour or print.
Examples of typical sewing projects
For an adult-sized jersey T-shirt, you'll often need around 1.30 to 1.60 metres of fabric 140 to 150 centimetres wide. The exact amount depends on the size, sleeve version and cut. A children's top often needs considerably less, but with a large motif, you should position the front piece so the design shows off nicely.
A simple skirt with an elasticated waistband is easy to calculate from your desired skirt length. With a fabric that's wide enough, take the skirt length, add the hem and waistband casing, and include a small cutting allowance. For a full circle skirt or a skirt with several panels, however, a sewing pattern with a cutting layout is a better basis.
For cushions, storage baskets and bags, you also need to factor in lining, reinforcement and straps. For a small make-up bag, 30 to 40 centimetres each of outer fabric and lining may be enough. A roomy shopping bag often needs 60 to 80 centimetres of outer fabric, depending on its size, plus the same amount of lining. With bags, remember firm interfacing, webbing and zips – the fabric alone doesn't complete the project.
Double-check before you order
Write down the quantities you need separately for main fabric, coordinating fabric, lining and ribbing. Then check the fabric width, print direction and pattern size. If you're planning several projects from the same fabric, plan all the pattern pieces together. Sometimes this saves fabric; sometimes it's only then that you realise both projects together need more than you thought.
Round up sensibly when buying fabric by the metre. An order of 1.45 metres may work for a precisely calculated project, but 1.50 or 1.60 metres makes cutting much more relaxed. Because fabrics at Die Stoffkönigin are available from just 20 centimetres, you can top up your quantity to suit without having to buy a whole extra metre.
If you're still unsure despite the chart, a photo of the sewing pattern, your size and the width of the fabric you've chosen will help us give you an estimate. It's better to ask quickly before cutting than to find out later that you're a few centimetres short for a sleeve or the back. That leaves more time for the best part of any project: sewing something all your own from a fabric you love.
