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Coating Fabric

Coating fabrics are thicker and more densely woven than everyday clothing fabrics. They hold warmth, keep their shape and give a coat the body it needs – for capes, jackets and waistcoats as well.

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Checks, houndstooth and marled plain shades are typical. The weight makes the fabric hang beautifully rather than flutter, but it does require a machine that feeds several thick layers reliably.

Sew with a strong needle, a longer stitch and at a calm pace. Seam allowances are best pressed open and kept flat, otherwise they add bulk. At collars and lapels a suitable interfacing keeps the edge clean.

Allow additional length for checks: the pattern should meet at the seams, and that requires extra fabric when cutting.

Frequently asked questions

Does a coat need a lining?

Usually yes. A lining makes the coat easier to put on, hides the inner seams and protects the outer fabric. In unlined designs the seams should be bound neatly so the inside looks tidy.

Which needle suits coating fabric?

A strong universal or denim needle, depending on the thickness. Lengthen the stitch slightly so the seam does not pucker, and sew slowly over multi layered areas.

How much extra fabric do I need for checks?

Allow at least one additional pattern repeat so you can shift the pieces until the checks meet at the seams. For large patterns, allow correspondingly more.

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