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Measuring and Marking

Before sewing comes measuring and marking. Darts, pocket positions and buttonholes have to sit exactly where the pattern places them – and for that you need tools whose marks can be removed again afterwards.

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Tailor's chalk is the classic: it brushes out and leaves no residue. Fading markers draw more finely and their lines disappear with water or by themselves after a while – practical as long as you keep working promptly.

For transferring lines from the pattern there is the tracing wheel, usually together with carbon paper. Darts and markings can be transferred onto the wrong side of the fabric without anything showing on the right side.

Tape measures and rulers belong to the basic kit. A flexible tape measures the body, a firm ruler guides the rotary cutter and helps when drawing straight lines.

Frequently asked questions

What do I use to mark dark fabric?

Light chalk or a marker in white or yellow. On dark fabrics pencil lines are barely visible, and water soluble blue markers disappear against the background.

Do the lines from fading markers really come out?

As a rule yes, depending on the type with water or by themselves. Test on a scrap before working on the actual fabric, and do not iron over the lines – heat can set them.

How do I transfer darts onto fabric?

With a tracing wheel and carbon paper from the wrong side. Alternatively push a pin through the marking point and mark the spot on both layers with chalk.

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