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Corduroy

Corduroy is recognised instantly by its lengthwise wales. Between them stands a short, soft pile that gives the fabric its depth. The narrower the wales, the finer the material looks – from delicate babycord to sturdy wide wale for trousers and jackets.

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Corduroy is a woven fabric in which additional weft threads are formed into loops and then cut open. This creates the characteristic stripes of standing pile. The result feels warmer than smooth cotton and is considerably more hard wearing.

Because the pile lies in one direction, corduroy changes colour depending on the viewing angle. Cut all pieces facing the same way, otherwise front and back appear to be different shades. It helps to mark the direction of the pile on the reverse before cutting.

Sew with a denim or universal needle in a stronger size. As the pile slips slightly under the presser foot, a walking foot or tacking helps. When pressing, place the fabric on a towel and work from the wrong side so the wales are not crushed.

Frequently asked questions

What does wale width mean with corduroy?

It describes how wide the individual stripes are. Fine corduroy looks more elegant and drapes more softly, wide wale is sturdier and more robust. Shirts and dresses usually call for fine wales, trousers and jackets for wider ones.

Do I have to consider the nap when cutting?

Yes. The pile lies in one direction, so the fabric catches the light differently from above and below. If pieces are cut in opposite directions, the finished garment looks patchy.

How do I press corduroy without damaging the pile?

Press from the reverse and put a terry towel underneath so the wales can sink into it. Direct pressure from above crushes the pile, and those areas stay visible afterwards.

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