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Zips

Which zip fits depends on the construction: jackets need open end zips, trousers and cushions closed end ones, dresses often invisible. On top of that comes zip by the metre, where length and number of sliders are up to you.

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Open end means both sides separate completely – every jacket needs that. Closed end zips are joined at the bottom and sit in trousers, cushion covers and bags.

Invisible zips disappear almost entirely into the seam; only the slider remains visible. They need a special foot that lifts the coil while sewing.

Zip by the metre is the flexible answer: you cut the length yourself and add as many sliders as the project needs. For bags with two sliders it is often the only practical option.

Measure the length from stop to stop, not across the whole tape. A zip that is too short cannot be extended; one that is too long can be shortened, as long as the top end disappears into the seam.

Frequently asked questions

Open end or closed end?

Open end for anything that opens fully at the front – jackets, gilets, coats. Closed end for trousers, skirts, cushions and bags, where the bottom stays joined.

How do I measure the right length?

From stop to stop, meaning the usable opening – not across the whole tape. Patterns usually quote exactly that measurement, so compare before you buy.

Can I shorten a zip that is too long?

Usually yes, from the top end. Sew a firm bar tack across the teeth as a new stop and cut above it. With metal teeth you need pliers.

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