Choosing fabric by the metre for every sewing project
A fabric can look gorgeous on the shelf and still feel wrong in the finished project: too stiff for a T-shirt, too thin for a bag or too slippery for your first skirt. When you buy fabric by the metre, you aren't simply choosing the length you want. You're deciding on drape, how it feels to wear, how long it lasts and how relaxed the sewing will be. If you think about material, purpose and pattern together, you'll avoid buying the wrong thing and enjoy the result for longer.
What makes fabric by the metre so practical
Fabric sold by the metre is cut to exactly what you need. That's especially handy when a sewing pattern doesn't call for a full length of fabric, or when you're planning small projects such as hats, little pouches, cushion covers or appliqués. Many fabrics go a long way even in modest amounts, so there's no need to end up with lots of leftover scraps.
At the same time, it pays not to cut things too fine. Pattern pieces need space, patterned fabrics need extra for the repeat, and some fabrics can shrink slightly in the first wash. For children's clothes or T-shirts, it's also sensible to allow a little extra for ribbing, facings or small repairs. With a minimum order of just 20 cm, you have plenty of freedom to combine colours or add deliberate accents.
Always factor the fabric width into your planning. A pattern laid out for 140 cm wide jersey will often need considerably more length on 110 cm wide woven fabric. So before you order, check both the width given in the sewing pattern and the actual width of the fabric.
The fabric has to suit the project
The best choice doesn't depend on the print alone. What really matters is what the finished piece needs to withstand, how it should drape and whether it needs to stretch. A garment for everyday wear has different requirements from a curtain or a lined wash bag.
Jersey for comfortable clothing
Jersey is soft, stretchy and a popular choice for all kinds of clothing projects. T-shirts, leggings, harem trousers, hats, pyjamas and children's clothes all benefit from its freedom of movement. Cotton jersey with elastane recovers well after stretching, which makes it particularly good for close-fitting styles.
Jersey needs a little care when sewing. Use a jersey or stretch needle and a stretch stitch so the seams don't snap when you pull the garment on. If you're still fairly new to sewing, it's best to start with a slightly firmer jersey rather than a very thin, slippery one. For finishing necklines, cuffs or waistbands, ribbing fabric makes a useful addition to the project.
Cotton woven fabric for crisp shapes
Cotton woven fabric has little or no stretch, usually feels pleasant to handle and is easy to cut and sew, which makes it ideal for beginners. It's well suited to patchwork, cushions, fabric storage baskets, aprons, light skirts, blouses, children's dresses and lots of décor ideas. It's also a reliable base for small gifts such as bookmarks, little fabric baskets or bunting.
The difference from jersey is noticeable: for clothing, woven fabric needs a pattern with enough ease for movement. A close-fitting T-shirt pattern designed for jersey won't work in cotton woven fabric. On the other hand, a loose-fitting dress made from woven fabric can drape beautifully, as long as the fabric you choose isn't too heavy.
Canvas, home décor fabric and sturdy qualities for bags
When a fabric needs to hold its shape, firmer qualities come into play. Canvas is ideal for bags, rucksacks, baskets, seat cushions, aprons or sturdy cushion covers. It's more hard-wearing than light cotton woven fabric and copes well with everyday use. For bags that will take a lot of strain, extra reinforcement can also be a good idea, for example in the base or the straps.
But more stability also means that several layers can get quite bulky under the sewing machine. With thick fabric combinations, check that your machine and the right needle can handle them. A bag doesn't have to be as firm as possible everywhere. Often it's enough to reinforce only the areas under strain, which keeps the project manageable.
Viscose for flowing styles
Viscose has a soft, fluid drape. It's a lovely choice for airy dresses, blouses, tunics, skirts or wide-leg trousers. It really comes into its own in styles with gathers, ruffles or lots of movement. However, it's often more slippery than cotton when cutting out and needs a little more patience.
Cut viscose on a large, smooth surface and secure the layers well with pattern weights or fine pins. A sharp universal needle and clean cut edges help too. For a first clothing project, a straightforward cotton fabric is usually easier to work with. But if you love that flowing drape, you'll find the little extra effort with viscose well worth it.
Softshell, fleece and rainwear fabric for the outdoors
For clothing and accessories that need to keep out wind, cold or wet, function is what counts. Softshell is popular for jackets, puddle suits and outdoor wear because it's usually wind-resistant and can have a soft inner side. Fleece keeps you warm and works well for gilets, blankets, scarves or as a lining. Rainwear fabrics, by contrast, are designed for projects where protection from the wet is the priority.
It's worth checking the exact product properties here: water-repellent doesn't automatically mean waterproof, and a warm layer is no substitute for a rain barrier. Moisture can get in through seams unless they're additionally sealed. Depending on how it's used, a puddle suit for nursery may need a different construction from one worn on long outings in persistent rain.
How to work out the right amount
The fabric requirement in the sewing pattern is your starting point, but not always the final word. It often refers to a specific fabric width and can change considerably for larger sizes, long sleeves, hoods or patterned fabrics. With large motifs or a clear directional print, you'll need more fabric so that the front, back and sleeves all look consistent.
Also remember to add seam allowance if it isn't included in the pattern. With checks, stripes and border prints, a little extra is especially sensible so the pattern lines up as neatly as possible at the side seams or pockets. A fabric that can only be cut in one direction also can't be laid out as economically.
Many natural fibres should be washed before cutting, ideally in the same way the finished piece will be cared for later. That way the fabric can shrink in advance, rather than distorting your finished garment after its first wash. With strongly contrasting colours, prewashing them separately is a sensible precaution.
Choosing colours, prints and coordinating fabrics
A main fabric looks its best when it doesn't have to compete with too many accompanying colours. With a large-scale print, one or two calm coordinating fabrics for ribbing, pockets or lining are often enough. Plain fabrics can pick up individual colours from the print and give the project a sense of visual calm.
Pay attention to the scale of the print, too. Large figures or big flowers can get lost on a small baby bodysuit or be cut off awkwardly. For small sewing projects, fine prints, polka dots or plain fabrics often work better. On a women's dress, however, a bold print can be given room to shine.
Colours on screen can look different from how they appear in a room. If you want to combine fabrics, product photos, colour descriptions and thinking about the light in which the piece will later be worn or used can all help. In our shop, you can lay fabrics side by side, and if you're unsure, personal advice is often the quickest route to a harmonious selection.
Good preparation makes sewing easier
Good cutting doesn't start with the scissors but with a straight fabric edge. Fold the fabric according to the grainline on the sewing pattern and check that the selvedge lies straight. With jersey or viscose, fabric clips and weights are sometimes easier to work with than lots of pins. Keep markings to a minimum and use a method that suits the material.
The needle isn't a minor detail either. A universal needle usually suits woven fabric, a jersey or stretch needle suits jersey, and a denim needle suits very sturdy fabrics. Test the stitch length, thread tension and, if necessary, the needle on a scrap. It only takes a few minutes and stops seams from rippling, stitches from skipping or the fabric from being damaged.
At Die Stoffkönigin, you'll find fabric by the metre, matching haberdashery, sewing patterns and everything else for your project in one place. When the right material meets the right pattern idea, a lovely fabric choice becomes a piece that's genuinely loved, whether it's worn, given as a gift or used every day.
When choosing, let your project guide you rather than just the first pretty print. The fabric that suits your pattern, your everyday life and your sewing skills turns an idea into something truly your own, something you'll pick up with pride.
