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Embroidery stabilisers: the right backing for every fabric

Stabiliser holds the fabric in shape while stitching so the design does not pucker. Which one you need comes down to one question: how should it come out afterwards – torn away, cut away or washed away?

Stabiliser guide

Which stabiliser do I need?

Choose what you want to embroider. We show you the set-up with the right Sulky stabiliser – roll, colour and tips included.

Recommendations based on Gunold (Sulky)

1. What do you want to embroider?

Stretchy

Non-stretch

No fabric & special

2. A bit more detail

Is the fabric loose, fluffy or coarse?
Does the item not fit in the hoop? (cap, collar, finished bag)
With appliqué?
Is the fabric light or dark?

Your set-up

Blazer, coat, canvas

  1. Your fabricBlazer, coat, canvas
  2. Underneath: Sulky Soft´n Sheer Plusstabiliser · stays, trim the edge

Medium-weight fabrics carry denser designs. A soft cut-away stays underneath without adding bulk.

How toAuf Maschenware das Vlies zusammen mit dem Stoff einspannen, nicht nur unterlegen.Test on a scrap first – stabiliser, needle and thread tension have to work together.

Also suitable:Sulky Tear Away PlusSulky Super Strong

Also needed:Machine Needles · €3.90

1 roll together €13.90

Subcategories (3)

Instead of single rolls

All Sulky stabilisers

Grouped by how the stabiliser comes out after stitching. Each tile is a series; choose size and colour on the series page.

StabiliserRemovalFixingWeightColoursIdeal forfrom
Cut Away Stabilisers
Sulky Soft´n Sheer PlusSoft Cut-Away Stabiliserstays, trim the edge–55 g/m²White, BlackT-shirt & jerseyPolo, piqué, stretch blouseBlazer, coat, canvas€13.90
Sulky Super StrongExtra Strong Cut-Away Stabiliserstays, trim the edge–80 g/m²White, BlackDenim, work jacketPatches & badges€13.50
Sulky Ultra StableHeaviest Embroidery Stabiliserstays, trim the edgeiron-on, permanent115 g/m²White, BlackBags & décor with body€15.90
Sulky Tender TouchIron-On Backing Stabiliseriron on, staysiron-on, permanent53 g/m²White, Black€13.00
Sulky ThermofixIron-On Bonding Webiron onfusible web50 g/m²–€12.00
Sulky BSN Fusible Film 25 cm × 5 mIron-on film for patchesiron oniron-on film––€22.00
Tear Away Stabilisers
Sulky Tear EasyLight Tear-Away Stabilisertear away–33 g/m²–€10.50
Sulky Tear Away PlusMedium Tear-Away Stabilisertear away–50 g/m²White, BlackShirt, blouse, dress€11.50
Sulky Totally StableIron-On Tear-Away Stabilisertear awayiron-on, peels off48 g/m²White, BlackFine knitPolo, piqué, stretch blouse€15.00
Sulky FilmoplastSelf-Adhesive Tear-Away Stabilisertear awayself-adhesive50 g/m²White, BlackFine knitChunky knitUnderwearLeather, faux leather, oilcloth€18.00
Sulky Filmoplast StrongHeavy Adhesive Stabilisertear awayself-adhesive95 g/m²–Fleece & sweat jacket€19.50
Sulky ThermofilmHeat-Soluble Filmiron away–30 µ–Knitted scarfChiffon & silkWoven scarf€10.50
Water Soluble Stabilisers
Sulky SolvyThin Water-Soluble Filmwash out–25 µ–Chunky knitTowel & terry€14.00
Sulky Ultra SolvySturdy Water-Soluble Filmwash out–80 µ–Free-standing lace€14.00
Sulky Fabri SolvyWater-Soluble Stabiliserwash out–40 g/m²–€14.00
Sulky Sticky Fabri-SolvyPrintable Adhesive Stabiliserwash outself-adhesive150 g/m²–Print a template€24.50
Sulky Paper Solvy Water-Soluble Paper, 12 sheetsWater-soluble paperwash out–––€11.00

Which stabiliser for which fabric?

Our recommendations at a glance, based on Gunold (Sulky).

T-shirt & jersey: Sulky Soft´n Sheer Plus
Jersey stretches every time it is worn. The stabiliser therefore stays in the shirt for good and keeps the design in shape – soft enough for the skin.
Fine knit: Sulky Filmoplast
Fine knit is hard to hoop tightly. Stuck onto a self-adhesive stabiliser, the stitches stay where they are.
Polo, piqué, stretch blouse: Sulky Soft´n Sheer Plus
Piqué and light stretch wovens keep their drape with a soft cut-away, and the design stays smooth after many washes.
Chunky knit: Sulky Filmoplast+ Solvy on top
Coarse knit is hard to hoop and swallows stitches. An adhesive stabiliser holds it underneath, and the film on top stops the design sinking into the knit.
Knitted scarf: Sulky Thermofilm
Both sides of a scarf are visible. Thermofilm holds while stitching and is then removed completely with the iron.
Underwear: Sulky Filmoplast
Delicate lingerie doesn't tolerate hoop pressure. It is laid on a self-adhesive stabiliser that is torn away afterwards.
Fleece & sweat jacket: Sulky Filmoplast Strong
Fleece and sweatshirt fabric are thick and stretchy. The heavy adhesive stabiliser carries many stitches without forcing the fabric into the hoop.
Shirt, blouse, dress: Sulky Tear Away Plus
Light woven fabric doesn't stretch. A medium tear-away is enough and simply tears off after stitching.
Blazer, coat, canvas: Sulky Soft´n Sheer Plus
Medium-weight fabrics carry denser designs. A soft cut-away stays underneath without adding bulk.
Denim, work jacket: Sulky Super Strong
Denim and heavy fabrics carry large, dense designs. The strong cut-away holds them for good.
Chiffon & silk: Sulky Thermofilm
Any stabiliser shows through chiffon and silk, and water can leave marks. Thermofilm is removed with the iron after stitching.
Towel & terry: Sulky Solvy
Stitches sink into terry pile. Solvy goes on top and underneath and washes out completely – the towel stays soft.
Woven scarf: Sulky Thermofilm
Both sides of a scarf are visible. Thermofilm holds while stitching and is then removed completely with the iron.
Leather, faux leather, oilcloth: Sulky Filmoplast
Leather and faux leather keep every hole and hoop mark. The material is therefore stuck on, not hooped.
Free-standing lace: Sulky Ultra Solvy
Free-standing lace is stitched without fabric. The strong film, used double, carries the stitches and dissolves in water afterwards – only the thread remains.
Patches & badges: Sulky Super Strong
A patch has to support itself. Several layers of cut-away make it firm, and the BSN iron-on film later holds it on the fabric.
Bags & décor with body: Sulky Ultra Stable
Bags and décor should have body. Ultra Stable is ironed on permanently and carries dense designs too.
Print a template: Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy
The template is printed on the stabiliser, stuck to the fabric and stitched over; afterwards the stabiliser washes out.

We sort our stabilisers the way Gunold sorts its Sulky range: by how the stabiliser is removed after stitching. That is also the most important decision, because it depends directly on the fabric.

Tear away stabiliser is the standard for firm wovens such as cotton, linen or canvas. The excess is torn off after stitching. This group also includes the self-adhesive Filmoplast stabilisers for pieces that will not fit in a hoop, and the heat-soluble film Thermofilm for fabrics that must not get wet.

Cut away stabiliser stays beneath the design permanently and is the right choice for jersey, sweatshirting and anything that stretches. Here you will also find the backing cover Tender Touch for the inside, the bonding web Thermofix and the iron-on film BSN for patches.

Water soluble stabiliser disappears completely when rinsed – as a topping on terry, as a backing for sheer fabrics and for freestanding lace.

Fabric and stabiliser belong in the hoop together, flat but without tension. Stretch the fabric and you get ripples after stitching, as soon as it relaxes again.

Frequently asked questions

Which stabiliser should I use for jersey?

A cut away stabiliser, because it stays in the fabric after stitching and holds the stretch permanently. For shirts and children's clothes a soft one such as Soft´n Sheer Plus works well, for dense designs a heavier one such as Super Strong.

Which stabiliser do I need for terry?

A water soluble film such as Solvy on top, so the stitches do not sink into the pile. Underneath goes a stabiliser that suits the towel. The film rinses out completely afterwards.

What if the fabric cannot be hooped?

Hoop a self-adhesive stabiliser such as Filmoplast on its own, score the backing paper and stick the fabric on. That way collars, pockets or finished garments can be embroidered too.

Why does my embroidery pucker?

Usually the stabiliser is missing or too light for the fabric. Fabric hooped too tightly is another common cause, because it relaxes after stitching and forms ripples.

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