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Pins

Pins hold pattern pieces together until the seam joins them. Two things matter: a fine point that leaves no visible holes, and a head that is easy to grip.

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The head makes a practical difference. Glass heads survive the iron, plastic heads melt under it. If you press over your pins, choose glass.

Thickness depends on the fabric. Fine pins for silk, chiffon and fine cotton, stronger ones for denim, canvas and several layers. A pin that is too thick leaves permanent holes in fine fabric.

Pin across the seam with the head towards the cut edge. The pins are then easy to pull out while sewing and the machine does not run over them – which spares needle and hook.

Pins are unsuitable for coated fabrics, faux leather and cork, as the holes stay visible. Use clips there, which only grip the fabric.

Frequently asked questions

Glass or plastic heads?

Glass if you press over your pins – plastic melts and then sticks to the iron. Plastic heads are often larger, though, and easier to grip.

How should I pin?

Across the seam with the head towards the cut edge. You can then pull the pins out comfortably while sewing without stopping, and will not run over them by accident.

Which fabrics do not take pins?

Coated fabric, faux leather, cork and films – the holes stay visible there. Use clips, or pin exclusively within the seam allowance.

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