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Jersey Bias Binding

Jersey bias binding is itself made from knitted fabric. It stretches with the fabric and is therefore the right choice for necklines, armholes and hems on shirts, dresses and children's clothes.

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A cotton binding on a jersey neckline blocks the stretch. The opening then no longer passes over the head, or the seam tears when dressing. Jersey binding solves this because it moves with the fabric.

While attaching, the binding is stretched slightly and the fabric stays flat. That tension makes the neckline sit close rather than standing away – stretched too hard, though, it draws in.

Sew with a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. A straight stitch breaks as soon as the neckline is stretched; zigzag, stretch stitch or overlocker hold.

The edges of jersey binding barely curl, as the tape is cut narrow and usually pre folded. That makes binding easier than with self cut jersey strips.

Frequently asked questions

Why not simply use cotton bias binding?

Because it does not give. On a jersey neckline it blocks the stretch, so the head no longer passes through or the seam tears when the garment is put on.

How much should I stretch the binding while attaching it?

Only slightly, so the fabric stays flat. Stretching too hard draws the neckline in and creates wrinkles later; not stretching at all leaves the edge standing away.

Can I cut jersey binding myself?

Yes, from jersey scraps across the grain. Bought binding is pre folded and evenly wide, though, which makes the work considerably easier.

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