Schrägband
Bias binding is cut at 45 degrees to the grain. That lets it stretch and follow curves without wrinkling – the standard solution for necklines, armholes, hems and edges of every kind.
- For binding
- Follows curves
- Pre folded
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The bias cut is the whole trick. A tape cut on grain stays rigid and wrinkles at every curve; cut on the bias it gives way and hugs the line.
Most bindings come pre folded: both long edges are already pressed inwards, often with a further fold down the middle. You simply lay the binding over the fabric edge and topstitch.
Which quality suits depends on the fabric. Cotton binding is the classic for wovens, jersey binding belongs on knits, and elastic binding absorbs stretch where the fabric has to give.
To work out how much you need, measure the edge and add a little for corners and the join. Binding bought too short can only be extended with a visible seam.
Good to know
Why is bias binding cut on the bias?
Because a woven fabric gives way at an angle to the grain. Only then can the binding hug curves without wrinkling. A tape cut on grain would stay rigid and lift at every curve.
How much bias binding do I need?
Measure the edge and add about ten per cent, more if there are many corners. Leftovers are useful for small pieces such as loops and hanging tabs.
Which binding should I use on jersey?
A jersey or elastic binding. Cotton binding blocks the stretch, so a neckline will not pass over the head later or the seam tears when dressing.